In early March 2020 when coronavirus was only just hitting Australia’s shores, I was in Lombok chasing waves along the island’s south coast with Jake Loughridge.
Read moreAny Day You Can Die - Thommy Waite Interview
Any Day You Can Die: The Medellín Story is a tell-all gringo adventure that makes you want to delete Facebook, drink mojitos, and hope your small crypto fortune someday turns to platinum gold.
Read moreFloating and bobbing; Smiling and waiting; Tripping and singing; Calling for one more In Indo
This little surf tale does not have epic barrels, gnarly sections or a hard line up. It does have fun sized waves, reef, mushrooms, clouds, mountains, islands and calling to the gods for waves like a chicken!
Read moreInterview with Thommy Waite
I watched that Storm Surfers doco a few years ago. I dug it. It’s a midlife crisis movie, kind of like Sideways but with some sick swell. Getting helicoptered out to an ocean break in the middle of nowhere would be fucking mega.
Read moreThree days waiting, two hours paddling, one wave. Worth it!
The stoke from surfing extends way beyond the moments riding waves. There is the forecast stoke, the lead up stoke and the dack-crapping stoke of a big swell arriving just to name a few. Patience is a huge part of surfing before, during and after each session.
Read moreInterview with Gusty Surf Reports
Learning to surf getting pushed onto waves far too big for my then skill level at Currumbin Alley by my dad who could barely swim himself, I was around age 10. You can’t forget the feeling the first time it all goes perfectly, floating across the water like some Marty McFly shit, too good.
Read moreThe Stoke A Beer Company Would Never Understand
Most will be familiar with the sentiment “only a surfer knows the feeling”. It refers to the moment where everything clicks and you’re whisked away for the ride of your life. Thanks to brands like Corona one immediately imagines a clean barreling wave at some warm water destination whenever the phrase is uttered.
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