Most will be familiar with the sentiment “only a surfer knows the feeling”. It refers to the moment where everything clicks and you’re whisked away for the ride of your life. Thanks to brands like Corona one immediately imagines a clean barreling wave at some warm water destination whenever the phrase is uttered.
But there are other feelings that are way more familiar to the regular surfer.
The feeling of waking up to yet another disappointing swell report. The feeling of being caught in a never ending summer lull. The feeling of getting to the beach just as the onshore starts to pick up.
Last weekend myself and a mate were frothing for a paddle. We jumped in my car and went to check out some common haunts. But the swell was low and the winds were close to gail force, so there was next to zero on offer.
My mate had been working away all week, and was determined to turn his arms over, despite the appalling conditions. “Sometimes you’ve just got to get wet” he said to me. We slipped on our wetties, did a few stretches, then ventured out into the washing machine.
For every 5 metres gained the undercurrents sent us 4 metres back. It was dire. We lasted 12 minutes total.
Back on the beach, my mate’s mood had changed. He looked elated. Thrashing around in the water had given him just enough buzz to forget about all the stresses of the working week.
I’ll let you in on a secret. Catching a glassy looking wave on a perfect day in Bali is pretty cool. But simply getting wet on a miserable day in Margs has the power to give you wings.
Only a surfer knows that feeling.